One Mutton Berry Pulao, One Patra Ni Macchi and a Sali Boti, followed
by a Caramel Custard. Once done wash all of down with a Raspberry
Soda. For some who have visited the place would have already realized
the fact that I had paid a visit to Britannia Cafe in Bombay. The
place is a almost a crumbling testimony to the once thriving but now
almost crumbling Parsi Cafe culture. Located in Ballard Estate the
lack of any air conditioning or the almost peeled of paint might put
some off but then one bite into the food served would take away all
mis pleasures. They say in Britannia that there is no love greater
than the love of eating. Get in sit down and order one of their lime
sodas and in no time you shall have a 90 year old man standing in
front of you ready to take you through your order. Boman Kohinoor is a
livewire moving from table to table helping people with choosing the
perfect combination for lunch and in giving thumbs ups once you are
done with ordering. He is one of the four partners who own and run the
venerable institution, the others being his brother Merwan and his
two sons Romin and Ashwin. In days where most of the younger
generation like us run off after swanky jobs and fat pay packages its
refreshing to see there still are people who believe in carrying on a
family legacy that has gone on since 80 years.
I had prepared well before I did venture out for lunch and knew
exactly what to order. “The Berry Pulao along with Sali Boti and a
Parta Ni Macchi as a side dish. One Caramel Custard for dessert and a
Raspberry Soda to go with the meal please”. I blurted this out the
moment Mr. Kohinoor arrived and though I guess he was a bit surprised
that I did not even look at the menu available. the fact that my
selection was almost perfect generated a smirk on his face as he
approved of my choice by saying “Good Boy”. The food arrived which is
generally very simple but nevertheless divine and each dish stands out
on its own. The Berry Pulao is a specialty of Britannia, pulao mixed
with gravy and meat topped with cashews and Iranian berries. While the
pulao and the gravy is not out of the ordinary what makes the dish
special is the tangy bits of the berries and the meatballs infused
with it. The dish is only available at Britannia and goes superbly
well with the Chicken Sali Boti. The Sali Boti again is a famous dish
here generally a bit sweet but not too much of it. The Patra Ni Macchi
is basically steamed fish (steamed in banana leaves) and served with
coconut chutney goes well acting as a light side dish as you dig into
your Berry Pulao and Sali Boti. The Caramel Custard too was quite
heavenly a welcome break from having stale ice creams and cakes as
dessert which is generally the usual fare in most restaurants these
days. All of it topped off with a drink of Raspberry Soda I realized
why the list of Britannia faithfuls is long and prolific.
Places like Britannia seems to form an old guard when compared to
todays rising culture of pizzeria's, burger joints and coffee places.
A frenzy of opening of such “Fast Food” options have often forced
places like Britannia to change into adopting a modern mindset
offering drinks and resurrecting the menu to taste in accordance to
the “Gen X”. Luckily Britannia has remained what it was when it
started as it aims to serve divine food with the most minimalistic
fuss, true that there are very less comforts to mention of in the
place and then there has been an increase in the prices too, but then
that does not stop people from pouring in and one would have to wait
for a table during lunchtime. The fact alone goes long telling a lot
about the people who manage the place. So go on and visit the place to
enjoy some old world comfort food and do try out the Mutton Cutlets
and Dhansak Rice other than the Berry Pulao, and be sure to order in
similar lines so that you get a “Thumbs Up” from Mr. Kohinoor.
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