Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Durga Puja aar Khaowa Dawa

Jostling among “Insane Crowds”, “Craning Necks” and “Standing on Toes” to get a glimpse of the “Protima”, standing in a mile long line to get “Bhog” or give “Pushpanjali”, repeat the similar feat at the food stalls and then trying to beat the dreaded traffic to reach home and put up the much pressurized feet. For an average person this is the usual fare during “Puja”. Whether it is “Kallol” in “Markin Jukto Rashtro” (USA) or “Bengali Association” in Bangalore the story is all the same. But then though this might seem quite strenuous for once (even complaining) the “Bongs”, get on with it.

My own story is a bit different, call me a Organizer (got a badge with the tag this time) or a glorified “Coolie” (people might mistake me for one if I was seen during the Puja) I am a but a few you voluntarily try to see that the huge crowds coming in do have a good time. Pretty stupid aint I ?? I myself don’t feel the same for the days Puja is on but the thought creeps in after it is over and I am left with a hurting back and stressed out muscles.

Puja though is worshipping the Devi it is nothing without the food on offer for the 4 days. The Devi too takes a backseat and the “Pushpanjali” too is given to allow oneself the chance to attack the “Khichudi Bhog” on offer. “Anandamela” began early this time to give space to “Nachiketa”. My aunts “Kebabs” were over faster than India’s decline from the top ODI spot and I ventured to sample the food around. “Anandamela” was started by the association aunties to put a delicious array of homemade “Bengali Cuisine” , sadly I guess the intentions have been washed away over the years as I found a few stalls selling Sandwiches even Soup. There were 56 stalls this time around but then most of them sold the very un appetizing and tasteless beet root cutlet (I was forced to eat one), many sold “Mangsher Ghoogni” without any “maangsho”. A quick dash to the food stall saved me from further trouble and after some crisp succulent rolls from “Nizams” the pujo feeling was getting on.

“Shasti” was wet very wet and the governor “Slipped Away” from the event. But then with the food stalls running in full steam there was little time to comment on his “Excellencies” absence. I tried my luck at the stall selling “Moglai Paratha” but one glance at the waiting queue drove me away to the “Biryani” stall. The discovery of this year’s Puja was the “Biryani” and “Chiken Chaap”at “Nizaams”. Though we are a by choice “Lazeez” customer over the years their “Biryani” has turned into “Boiled Rice with Canine Meat”. The “Biryani” was quite surprisingly very “Calcuttan”. Greasy along with a whole boiled “Aaloo” (Potato), “Dim” (Egg). I was armed with my SLR camera however, by that time I had dug into my plate with my hands and so there is no pictorial proof of the same. The “Chaap” too consisted of huge pieces of chicken breasts cooked right through after the curd and the spices had done its flavoring bit. Add to that 2 parathas and all the frustration of being made to have long wait was washed away. “Biryani” and “Chaap” done it is time for some “Toofani Chumuk” and as I made my way to the nearest cold drink stall I noticed a sign in a stall named “Mummy’s Kitchen”, it read “Cornflakes Available for Breakfast”. Bemused I passed the “Babumoshai” stall their kitchen shouting out “kal theke Jal khabare Luchi Mangsho” (Puri and Mutton available for breakfast from the next day).

I retired early that day bearing in mind the 3 tiring days up ahead. Being a part of the “Poribeshon Committee” is not a joke. Armed with a bunch of kids (average age 10) we serve “Khichudi Bhog” from “Saptami to Nabomi”. A promise of an “Ice Cream” along with “Chocolates” at the end the “kid brigade” hold fort for 4 hours. As they serve we stand aside and admire as the next generation stands to take our place. After all it is a “Sarbojonin” Puja, involvement is a must. Since the whole Puja fell during the weekends we got huge crowds thus I a few of us had to skip the “Khicudi” but then a managed to have atleast 50 “rasgullas” and 2 litres of chaler payesh (a rice & milk concoction). (Thinking of commenting on my sweet tooth – well then save your breath I am a Bong).

“Ashtami” we had decided to have some more of the “Biryani” and “Chaap” along with some “Aam Porar Shorbot” (Burnt Mango Shorbet) from “Bay of Bengal”. The almost burnt “Kadai” in front of the stall was serving “Fish and Mutton Kobiraji” but again the long wait played a spoilsport. But then the “Chaap” took away any kind of negative feelings and after sampling a huge “Paan” I made way to the “Trinoyoni” show. Nothing much to report from that apart from the weird dance moves by 200 lb “Boudi’s” to the ever popular “Baranday Roddur”. I clicked a few photos and then retreated to the main pandal with my bottle of “Toofani Chumuk” and let quite a few satisfied “Dhekurs” (Burps).

“Nobomi” was very tiring especially after trying to organize the “Dhunuchi Competition” after “Poribeshon” got over. Had to literally drag myself back home and collapsed. “Bishorjon” was missed trying to catch up with the missed sleep (got up at 2 30) but then did not have much regret.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Sarbajanin or Commercial ??

The rising beats on the “Dhak”, the ambience of the “Man daps”, the continuous clatter and chatter of “Bengalees” all age and sizes, for 4 days Goddess Durga descends for her annual sojourn to her paternal house when the normally sleepy “Bengalees” awake and welcome the goddess.

I cant go back much when it comes to giving the history of the evolution of “Puja” , but since the days I was a kid till the present day I have seen the transformation of “Durga Puja” from a mere celebration of the Goddess to big business, for a whole range of businesses. I grew up with the Puja being a mere celebration, with “Chada” (donations) collected locally from the people of the colony / neighborhood where the Puja was organized. The “Para” came together to help out for the daily duties and even enjoyed a “Community Bhog” together. For once in a year we were more than just mere “Neighbors”. There also was another means of holding the “Puja’s” specially the ones held by the Local “dadas” -mostly youths who didn’t have much else to do in life - go about collecting the donations (and everyone happily obliged, after all, who would deny the “Devi” herself. A budget of 10000 to 15000 would allow them to have the “Puja” and some very cheerful “High Times”.

However there were certain “Bigger” Puja’s, Ekdalia Evergreen, Santosh Mitra Square (pardon the bad memory for not naming a few more) comes to mind. These were much bigger in scale with the “Man dap” surrounded by a few “Food Stalls” (most of them selling rolls), a place to shoot down balloons (one could not, the aiming device was sabotaged), occasionally a few of them even had small merry go rounds. North Calcutta stayed at North and South in South. “Pandal” Hopping meant within a distance of 2 kilometers. The smaller “Pandals” was designed to be a box like structure, the bigger ones were more like a mix of Carnatic and Chinese architecture (began resembling a typical South Indian Temple but then swiftly resembled a pagoda as one looked up.

Pretty boring eh, but then suddenly as if someone lifted “Trade Barriers” the “Puja’s” became a whole new different ball game. BIG was the order of the day and BIG the “Puja’s” did turn out to be. Private Sponsorship, Event Management Companies, Extensive Media Coverage, Best Puja Awards the late 1990’s saw Puja shed it 1980 inhibitions and emerge as fresh dazzling spectacle, a way that no one expected it to be.

The humble “Para Puja” committee was done with and Event Management Companies came into being. Earlier the “Para” uncles acted as Chairmen of the Puja Committees and the local youth did all the work like deciding the Priest, buying the necessary items for Puja and distributing “Prasad”. But then this along with the BOX shaped Pandal would not guarantee a second look from the passing visitor the chances of winning the “Best Puja Award” was as minimal as “Ganguly” hooking “Shoiab” for a Six. But “Dada” being “Dada” remained in top flight with that, the humble committee could not. Thus the idea of having sponsors came in allowing one to spend on the “Puja Decorations”. It started with the local “Biscuit”, “Chanachur” “Hawai Chappal” brands who did sponsor but soon, the Corporate Bigwigs made an entry. Initially they were just “Sponsors” but now they are more of “Travel”, “Media”, and “Associate” partners. The story is similar to the smaller cities too where the MNC FMCG and Electronic companies viewed this as a way to enter the rural market in a bigger way, as no other medium would give them greater visibility.

Now that there was an overflow of funds the dealing with the decoration of the “Man daps” became supremely organized. The “Boxed Shaped” or rather “Tall Looking” structures gave way to structures resembling architecture from around the world. India too was not missed and unheard temples otherwise were created which were gazed upon by people lining up in huge queues. The “Pandal” over the years have been decorated with “Bhars” (earthen pots) to “Beedi” leaves. But as expenditure in these cases shot up so did the quality of design and planning for such events. Specialized firms were hired to do the job. What generally took 2 to 3 weeks of planning and execution now became an effort which required planning to the detail.

Kumartuli is probably the most important place in Calcutta just before the “Puja’s”. But then as before the orders for the “Devi” are not as simple as it used to be. Designer “Thakurs” are on the rise and each of them are custom made. With the individual “Puja’s” willing to pay more with their inflated budgets, the profits in this side of town have increased by many folds. There now exists a proper supply chain solution to the business and use of computers to keep track of specifications and delivery schedules. But the real BUCK as one would call comes from the overseas orders. New York and London are old boys a newer breed in the huge Bengali Diaspora across the globe comes from Geneva, Moscow, and Sydney. The humble “Puja” has become a global spectacle.

The spectacle that it is today the “Puja’s” must give the media its fair share of credit. The time we were growing up DD Bangla was the only Bengali news channel around and no one watched it as the shows were outright horrible. However, the last 2 years have seen as many as 21 Bengali news and entertainment channels come into existence, not to forget nearly 50 channels catering to the various districts, the city of Kolkata and other local channels. Increased competition among these players has seen innovation in the manner in which they cover the “Puja’s”. Nowadays one can relax at home and allow the “Media” to hop around the “Pandals” thus getting to see each of the “Man daps” which otherwise would mean standing in a queue at least 3 miles long.

Bengalees love to eat and the “Puja” meant a reason to splurge in eateries. The “Community Bhog”, “Rolls” dished out by the local stall, the “Kosha Mangsho” (meat curry) and “Luchi” at home were the choices to choose from. But then right now it would mean a trip to “Oh Calcutta” or “Bhojohori Manna” for a 10 course meal, the simple “Community Bhog” which was just a 2 course meal now comes cooked by a pre appointed caterer along with both “Ammesh” and “Nirameesh” (Veg / Non Veg) choices. The “Urban” would rather cut a cake for “Durga” rather than put in calories by having “Sandesh”. One of the popular cola companies during my childhood in Calcutta used to advertise their product saying “Pujoy Chai Tufaani Chumuk” (This Puja dive into a thunderous sip), nowadays you are more likely to see “Matro 16 cold drink keno?” (Only 16, why have cold drink?).

“Puja” also meant one night of entertainment with the “Para” idol singling old Bengali songs joined in by numerous other’s who like him were well off tune and any “Raag”. Nowadays one would not be surprised if you find Shah Ruk Khan shaking a leg with you. You could also find our “Beloved Dada” beside you trying hard to match Shahruk. Celebrity guests like Shahruk himself are now a common sight during the “Puja’s”. These celebs are often sponsored by huge corporates who feel under media coverage this would be a huge impact. The “Para Idol” nowadays has a new role, delivering mantras for the “pushpanjali”.

Fashion during the 4 days has also witnessed a huge change. The traditional “Dhuti” “Panjabi”, “Saree” may be ok for “Maha Ashtami” but otherwise it is designer clothes specially designed for the 4 days. Ladies have shed their inhibitions too and one would not be surprised to see someone in a short dress or hot pants. The very way of shopping for “Puja” has changed drastically. While earlier it meant toiling hard in long queues and getting stuck in traffic nowadays it means hopping into a mall and avail all under the same roof, at competitive prices, “special Puja discounts”, with an eatery to re-energize and a movie theatre to unwind at the end of long shopping session. If you are lucky you can also find yourself to be the “most beautiful shopper” etc.

Given the so called glitz and glamour of the “Puja” these days’ purists might argue that the very innocence of the “Pujas” is being lost. Even though I have been out of Calcutta for over 6 years now I can still feel “Puja” rushing its way through. A few of you might think I am being highly romantic but that is seriously the case. “Puja” lets you have the feeling for the few days it is there. One needs to experience “Puja” the way it is meant to be. The last thing we would want is for “Puja’s” to turn out to be too commercial for us to handle.

We are all but “Bheto Bangalis” who love to eat, talk and laze around. “Puja’s” were a mean of getting the family together and enjoying. While our “Dads” and “Uncles” got busy with getting things arranged for the festival our “Mothers” got the other womenfolk together to help out in the daily routines to performing the “Puja”. We dressed in our new clothes did the “Odd jobs” and for once got perm to hop around the city to watch other “Puja’s” across the city. Food this time around was always very “Bangali”, most of the delicacies cooked at home. This was the very essence of a “Sarbajanin” “Puja”. The main importance was to get together and have a good time. “Adda” and “Khaowa Dawa” was of extreme importance for the few days.

Has the “Huge Commercialization” overcome the feeling of the “Sweet Autumn Skies”, the “Sound of the Dhak” ,“the misty ambience of the man daps” and given way to Shah Ruk Khan dancing around in front of the “Man dap” shouting “Korbo Lorbo Jeetbo Re?”

Hopefully it hasn’t.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Dissection of a Kati Roll



A result of “Typical Quick Thinking” on a busy day when customers purchasing kebab and parathas outstripped the rate at which plates could be washed the so called “Mama” behind the “Tawa” decided to roll the meat in the paratha and serve them as “Rolls”. The very “Calcuttan” way of having a cheap but filling street available fast food had arrived. Over the years the “Mama” realized that having “Lalu” roll the “Roll” in paper was also less time consuming than washing the plates even if they were just “Rinsed” in water. Years of practice and “Mama” and “Lalu” were found to be in one of Calcutta’s famous restaurants, for a city noted for its Muglhai food “Nizams” was a Religion and the “Rolls” served its “Baptism”.

To explain best how the mouth watering and “Pepsi” guzzling 10 inch of pure delight is made one would have to venture to Calcutta and look in awe as how first the paratha is made then fried over a tawa, whipped egg is poured in the tava's center and topped with the bread and the meat sautéed with minimal use of freshly chopped onions. This done the Master passes the still “Smoking” paratha and the filling to the apprentice who with speed and efficiency wraps it up with spices, red onion slivers and lime carefully paying attention to the numerous customers surrounding the stall shouting out instructions – “Dada Amar ta te jhall beshi”, (more chillies for me) “Ore peach eta kom kore” (less of onions), “Lonka ta alada de” (Put the chilies separately).

But amidst all the confusion and the clatter the respective orders does reach the awaiting crowd accurately and at prices ranging from INR 10 to 30 (depending on the size and filling of the roll ordered) the meal is quite a feast.

Though “Nizams” still remain as one of the prime places to visit for rolls, there are quite a few in an area called Golpark – “Bedwin, Shiraz, Iceberg” are the ones that come to mind immediately.

By the way Pujas is next week and if one does want to try out the “Roll” Calcutta style please do visit the stalls at the RBNMS grounds which houses the puja for the “Bengalee Association”.

So for all those who are still yet to have ever tried a Kati roll, do so and please let me know what you think of the “Indian burrito”

Ambrosia - Food For the Gods

Koramangala has a new eating place. Now that would not stir any bones especially that in here you might just wake up one day and find the house next door has turned in to a restaurant. But then this one belongs to a friend of mine. A friend with whome I have traumatized much of the restaurants serving buffets in Bangalore. But then eating was not always pure gluttony and the aim was not to see the manager of the restaurant cursed the very day we decided to “Invade” his restaurant. Eating for some is a “Passion” we hoped than the poor managers though us to be the “Elite Few”.

“Ambrosia” – Food for the Gods it is called located in Koramangala in Bangalore, the 4th building from Sony World. Now I am not a person who has a “Very Fine Eye” to point out how good a location is or if the décor is up to the mark so that one could peacefully eat there. The place is for “Fine Dine” and that’s all you shall get on it. But then the food was excellent and over “Chicken Kebabs”, “Stroganoff” and “Drunken Banana” I was left very contempt.

The Stroganoff was cooked to perfection with lightly floured meat cubes (not strips) sautéed, sauced with prepared mustard and bouillon, finished with a small amount of sour cream and topped off with liberal helping of olives. But then it just wasn’t that alone as it was cooked right in front of me “Flambé” style. The chicken too was soft and succulent and surprisingly wasn’t “coloured” as is the case with most of the places serving kebabs in Bangalore.

Now would I recommend the place well this time I quite shamelessly will as it belongs to a friend so if you are quite dome reading whatever I have written then “Please do go and visit the place”.

I have tried to make the post as mouthwatering as possible hopefully yours is watering. If not I have failed miserably or else this post was not meant for you to be read.

AMBROSIA, Bookings & Contact.

52 B, 100 Feet Road, 4th Block, Koramangala

Near SONY World) Bangalore 560 034

Phone: (080 4094 0101, or 2) or (97403 91194)

info@rhombushospitality.com

http://ambrosiadining.com/index.html