Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Sarbajanin or Commercial ??

The rising beats on the “Dhak”, the ambience of the “Man daps”, the continuous clatter and chatter of “Bengalees” all age and sizes, for 4 days Goddess Durga descends for her annual sojourn to her paternal house when the normally sleepy “Bengalees” awake and welcome the goddess.

I cant go back much when it comes to giving the history of the evolution of “Puja” , but since the days I was a kid till the present day I have seen the transformation of “Durga Puja” from a mere celebration of the Goddess to big business, for a whole range of businesses. I grew up with the Puja being a mere celebration, with “Chada” (donations) collected locally from the people of the colony / neighborhood where the Puja was organized. The “Para” came together to help out for the daily duties and even enjoyed a “Community Bhog” together. For once in a year we were more than just mere “Neighbors”. There also was another means of holding the “Puja’s” specially the ones held by the Local “dadas” -mostly youths who didn’t have much else to do in life - go about collecting the donations (and everyone happily obliged, after all, who would deny the “Devi” herself. A budget of 10000 to 15000 would allow them to have the “Puja” and some very cheerful “High Times”.

However there were certain “Bigger” Puja’s, Ekdalia Evergreen, Santosh Mitra Square (pardon the bad memory for not naming a few more) comes to mind. These were much bigger in scale with the “Man dap” surrounded by a few “Food Stalls” (most of them selling rolls), a place to shoot down balloons (one could not, the aiming device was sabotaged), occasionally a few of them even had small merry go rounds. North Calcutta stayed at North and South in South. “Pandal” Hopping meant within a distance of 2 kilometers. The smaller “Pandals” was designed to be a box like structure, the bigger ones were more like a mix of Carnatic and Chinese architecture (began resembling a typical South Indian Temple but then swiftly resembled a pagoda as one looked up.

Pretty boring eh, but then suddenly as if someone lifted “Trade Barriers” the “Puja’s” became a whole new different ball game. BIG was the order of the day and BIG the “Puja’s” did turn out to be. Private Sponsorship, Event Management Companies, Extensive Media Coverage, Best Puja Awards the late 1990’s saw Puja shed it 1980 inhibitions and emerge as fresh dazzling spectacle, a way that no one expected it to be.

The humble “Para Puja” committee was done with and Event Management Companies came into being. Earlier the “Para” uncles acted as Chairmen of the Puja Committees and the local youth did all the work like deciding the Priest, buying the necessary items for Puja and distributing “Prasad”. But then this along with the BOX shaped Pandal would not guarantee a second look from the passing visitor the chances of winning the “Best Puja Award” was as minimal as “Ganguly” hooking “Shoiab” for a Six. But “Dada” being “Dada” remained in top flight with that, the humble committee could not. Thus the idea of having sponsors came in allowing one to spend on the “Puja Decorations”. It started with the local “Biscuit”, “Chanachur” “Hawai Chappal” brands who did sponsor but soon, the Corporate Bigwigs made an entry. Initially they were just “Sponsors” but now they are more of “Travel”, “Media”, and “Associate” partners. The story is similar to the smaller cities too where the MNC FMCG and Electronic companies viewed this as a way to enter the rural market in a bigger way, as no other medium would give them greater visibility.

Now that there was an overflow of funds the dealing with the decoration of the “Man daps” became supremely organized. The “Boxed Shaped” or rather “Tall Looking” structures gave way to structures resembling architecture from around the world. India too was not missed and unheard temples otherwise were created which were gazed upon by people lining up in huge queues. The “Pandal” over the years have been decorated with “Bhars” (earthen pots) to “Beedi” leaves. But as expenditure in these cases shot up so did the quality of design and planning for such events. Specialized firms were hired to do the job. What generally took 2 to 3 weeks of planning and execution now became an effort which required planning to the detail.

Kumartuli is probably the most important place in Calcutta just before the “Puja’s”. But then as before the orders for the “Devi” are not as simple as it used to be. Designer “Thakurs” are on the rise and each of them are custom made. With the individual “Puja’s” willing to pay more with their inflated budgets, the profits in this side of town have increased by many folds. There now exists a proper supply chain solution to the business and use of computers to keep track of specifications and delivery schedules. But the real BUCK as one would call comes from the overseas orders. New York and London are old boys a newer breed in the huge Bengali Diaspora across the globe comes from Geneva, Moscow, and Sydney. The humble “Puja” has become a global spectacle.

The spectacle that it is today the “Puja’s” must give the media its fair share of credit. The time we were growing up DD Bangla was the only Bengali news channel around and no one watched it as the shows were outright horrible. However, the last 2 years have seen as many as 21 Bengali news and entertainment channels come into existence, not to forget nearly 50 channels catering to the various districts, the city of Kolkata and other local channels. Increased competition among these players has seen innovation in the manner in which they cover the “Puja’s”. Nowadays one can relax at home and allow the “Media” to hop around the “Pandals” thus getting to see each of the “Man daps” which otherwise would mean standing in a queue at least 3 miles long.

Bengalees love to eat and the “Puja” meant a reason to splurge in eateries. The “Community Bhog”, “Rolls” dished out by the local stall, the “Kosha Mangsho” (meat curry) and “Luchi” at home were the choices to choose from. But then right now it would mean a trip to “Oh Calcutta” or “Bhojohori Manna” for a 10 course meal, the simple “Community Bhog” which was just a 2 course meal now comes cooked by a pre appointed caterer along with both “Ammesh” and “Nirameesh” (Veg / Non Veg) choices. The “Urban” would rather cut a cake for “Durga” rather than put in calories by having “Sandesh”. One of the popular cola companies during my childhood in Calcutta used to advertise their product saying “Pujoy Chai Tufaani Chumuk” (This Puja dive into a thunderous sip), nowadays you are more likely to see “Matro 16 cold drink keno?” (Only 16, why have cold drink?).

“Puja” also meant one night of entertainment with the “Para” idol singling old Bengali songs joined in by numerous other’s who like him were well off tune and any “Raag”. Nowadays one would not be surprised if you find Shah Ruk Khan shaking a leg with you. You could also find our “Beloved Dada” beside you trying hard to match Shahruk. Celebrity guests like Shahruk himself are now a common sight during the “Puja’s”. These celebs are often sponsored by huge corporates who feel under media coverage this would be a huge impact. The “Para Idol” nowadays has a new role, delivering mantras for the “pushpanjali”.

Fashion during the 4 days has also witnessed a huge change. The traditional “Dhuti” “Panjabi”, “Saree” may be ok for “Maha Ashtami” but otherwise it is designer clothes specially designed for the 4 days. Ladies have shed their inhibitions too and one would not be surprised to see someone in a short dress or hot pants. The very way of shopping for “Puja” has changed drastically. While earlier it meant toiling hard in long queues and getting stuck in traffic nowadays it means hopping into a mall and avail all under the same roof, at competitive prices, “special Puja discounts”, with an eatery to re-energize and a movie theatre to unwind at the end of long shopping session. If you are lucky you can also find yourself to be the “most beautiful shopper” etc.

Given the so called glitz and glamour of the “Puja” these days’ purists might argue that the very innocence of the “Pujas” is being lost. Even though I have been out of Calcutta for over 6 years now I can still feel “Puja” rushing its way through. A few of you might think I am being highly romantic but that is seriously the case. “Puja” lets you have the feeling for the few days it is there. One needs to experience “Puja” the way it is meant to be. The last thing we would want is for “Puja’s” to turn out to be too commercial for us to handle.

We are all but “Bheto Bangalis” who love to eat, talk and laze around. “Puja’s” were a mean of getting the family together and enjoying. While our “Dads” and “Uncles” got busy with getting things arranged for the festival our “Mothers” got the other womenfolk together to help out in the daily routines to performing the “Puja”. We dressed in our new clothes did the “Odd jobs” and for once got perm to hop around the city to watch other “Puja’s” across the city. Food this time around was always very “Bangali”, most of the delicacies cooked at home. This was the very essence of a “Sarbajanin” “Puja”. The main importance was to get together and have a good time. “Adda” and “Khaowa Dawa” was of extreme importance for the few days.

Has the “Huge Commercialization” overcome the feeling of the “Sweet Autumn Skies”, the “Sound of the Dhak” ,“the misty ambience of the man daps” and given way to Shah Ruk Khan dancing around in front of the “Man dap” shouting “Korbo Lorbo Jeetbo Re?”

Hopefully it hasn’t.

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